The Portico – 3rd fl. (community mall), Langsuan Rd., Tel. 092 265 5942, Website: FB
I was recommended this place by a guy I know; he told me they had a burger on their menu and I thought I’d wander over and check it out. I should say straight away that this is not a burger joint, it’s a French restaurant that serves up some of the best mussels in Bangkok (so I’m told). I went over my lunch hour and they had a nice set menu (which is attached somewhere below). So, as I do, I ordered the beef burger lunch set (which is the same price as the a la carte burger – and the same burger for that matter). The set came with a choice of soup or salad, the burger and a choice of coffee or tea. The restaurant was pretty quite when I was there – one other couple sitting across the room – so I enjoyed a nice quite lunch. Now, let’s get into the beef of things …
Beef Burger – THB 450.- nett (Apx. US $14.50)
“120g beef patty, compotee d’oignons, gruyere/tomme/cheddar cheese blend, and sun-dried sherry tomatoes served on a gruyere brioche bun”
I’m not really sure how to say it nicely, so I’m just going to say it … This burger came with everything except the satisfaction of having eaten it. A little harsh perhaps, but I’ll explain. This was not a question of quality or flavor necessarily; stand alone, all components of the burger were quite nice. However, for me, when put in burger form, it was lacking. Both the texture of the bun and the patty took away from that oh so good feeling of biting into a juicy burger for the first time. It was too soft … and I’m not talking about pillowy soft, it was more like delicate soft. No resistance when biting through. I’m not against brioche buns, but in this instance (and in another experience I had recently) I was let down by them. As for the patty, for a place that also specializes in meat, I was not asked how I would like mine cooked. Maybe they don’t do that there, and since I forgot to mention it, maybe they assumed that I did not care. Either way, I take responsibility for that.
I thought the flavor was ok, but again, the texture was a bit too soft. The compotee d’oignons (onions cooked in syrup) was sweet as expected, but it was nice in that it really woke up the mouth. Everything else was pretty much ok. The fries were cute, none that I had were longer than 1.5 inches … which I liked for some reason. Anyway, so would I go back for another burger, probably not. Regardless of the type of burger I eat, I still want to have the sense of gritty indulgence … maybe this burger was just too refined for me?! Anyway, I did see some steaks on the menu that looked interesting …
NOTE: Credit Cards only accepted for checks over THB 500.-
Set Menu/Burger Menu